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Cos D’Estournel. The name says it all. I’ve tasted Cos once. It was before I really knew or appreciated what I was drinking. Gastroenophile knows and appreciates.

…for my taste, the best contemporary Cos was the ’96–and at £720 a case half the price of the ’03. Forgive the superlatives, but the rim reminded me of the crimson glow that awakens you when you are flying over the Outback of Australia. The flavour is full throttle, with cedar, a touch of spice and, I am afraid, dried blood. This will effortlessly last two decades at least.

And he got to drink a ’28

The ’28, though, was a profound experience. It actually improved with time in the glass, and when I poured the last few drops from the bottle a few hours later, it was even more harmonious. It was slightly prickly but still had sweet fruit and a gentle aftertaste

One day soon I will again taste Cos.

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